On Monday 16th September, Ricardo Tisci presented his latest Burberry collection for London Fashion Week, Evolution SS20. Evolution is Tisci’s third collection for Burberry and is aptly named, a true statement of how the brand has evolved under his tenure and how he has grown in confidence at the helm.
As a Burberry lover, I am always thankful to Tisci for remaining true to the house’s heritage and this show proved no exception. The trench coats were reimagined, the tailoring was ever present, the monogram was everywhere and even though heritage was recognised, it was done with a touch of modernity.
Although many would argue that this Burberry show wasn’t in any way groundbreaking in terms of design, I found it to be a true indication that Tisci has found his feet and his place at the house. If his first couple of shows were experimental to somewhat test the water, then this one is the next step, the winning Tisci Burberry formula.
What inspired Burberry Evolution SS20?
Reading notes from the show, Evolution was inspired by the Victorian era, the time when Burberry was founded. Even the sound system was inspired by the Victorian era, and played out a carefully curated William Djoko track as the models walked the runway. Cinched-in waists and elaborate sleeves for both men and women were the style codes of the collection, whilst hand-painted animals adorned scarves, trench coats and blouses in another nod to the Victorian era.
This quote from Ricardo Tisci sums up the show and collection perfectly:
‘My first year at Burberry was about understanding and refining the new codification for the house. With that foundation in place, I feel ready to start exploring what’s at the heart of this incredible brand.Ricardo Tisci
In the archive, I discovered this beautiful story at the origin of our past. Thomas Burberry was a young pioneer and a self-made man who built his company during the Victorian era – a time in Britain for great change and progress and an era that has always inspired me and my work. He chose to present his company with an emblem of a knight on a horse, but for his family crest, he instead chose a unicorn. Thomas Burberry was a daring innovator but also a romantic and a dreamer.
This is the story behind this collection, a collection inspired by our past and dedicated to our future. It’s the evolution of our Burberry kingdom.’
Patches featuring the word ‘Unicorn’ were sewn onto beautiful lace pieces, a fitting tribute to the company’s founder and another nod to the past presented with a modern twist.
What were your favourite looks from the show?
Although I love Burberry casual and street-inspired style, my favourite pieces from any collection are always those that are tailored. First and foremost, I loved the blue/grey/white hues of Evolution; always a perfect colour palette for Spring and my favourite colours to wear.
This girl boss look modelled by runway royalty Freja Beha Erichsen was one of my favourites from the show (see the full look here it’s look 16). The amazing layered trench and oversized pocket bag was everything! I also loved the trench modelled by Agyness Dean (who made her runway return after a 7 year break) and it’s beautiful detailing because lets face it, are you even a Burberry fan if you don’t love a Burberry trench?! I’m also a huge fan of the new versions of the Lola bag (make sure you check them out over at Burberry.com!).
One things for certain, Tisci’s vision of an Evolution is the best I’ve ever seen! The future is Burberry and I can’t wait to see it!
Until next time,
(all images are copyright of Burberry.com and Burberry’s instagram page. I do not own these images)